Shivering body shaking as grains of ice falling from the sky Jayawijaya Mountains, Papua, Saturday (24 / 4) afternoon. Although it is wrapped in thick jackets and gloves, the body remains dirayapi chill that pierced to the bone.
When departing from the last camp at Valley Lakes about 4:00 pm CDT, the temperature gauge showed minus two degrees celsius. However, the air temperature that day was over and fold the cold. Besides exposure hail, strong winds in the Great Terrace located at an altitude of about 4750 meters above sea level (masl), blowing like a raging strong.
Gunawan Muhamad fingers (52) had turned blue from the cold. With a physical condition that has dropped, climbers with whom I joined in the Bravo team's World Summit Expedition Seven keep moving towards Carstensz Pyramid Peak is located on the south side of Jayawijaya Mountains. The team walked slowly because of low visibility to only about three meters due to covered with dense fog.
Nearly six-hour trip to Carstensz Pyramid Peak pursued. Field marked with slope steeper climbs to reach 80 degrees. Rope, along the edge of the cliff, rock-climbing up the rocks to be done if you want to reach the highest peak in Indonesia.
Fast beating heart rate, breathing, staggering steps, and the head felt dizzy because of depleted oxygen. Because no strong current, some members of the team chose to crawl in between steep cliffs. Not only physical strength, mental toughness was tested if they want to continue the journey towards the summit.
After a hard struggle, partly derived from the Bravo Team Association and the Mountain Climber facer Wanadri Woods finally managed to spread the Red and White in peaks with an altitude of 4884 masl it. Prostration of gratitude and congratulations coloring of this achievement.
At almost the same time, my journey is accompanied by other Wanadri climbers, Fajar Nugroho (26), suspended in a niche located at an altitude of approximately 100 meters to the summit. With the energy that had been depleted, the bad weather hindered us in front of the abyss with a depth of about 20 meters and 15 meters wide Cage named Pig.
The time was nearly 12:00 o'clock require that we go back down although not yet reached the peak that we are headed. "If passed, would be dangerous because of all climbers must be able to return to the Valley of Lakes before dark," said Yoppie Rikson, Chief Executive of the World Summit Expedition Seven, which participated to the top.
Two days later, together with other Bravo team members, Setyo Ramadi (46) and Agus Nugraha (48), I returned trying to Carstensz Pyramid. Although dogged by a thick fog, we finally set foot on the peak eight-hour journey through a very exhausting. However, physical exhaustion and the cold in the body seemed to be erased with happiness at that moment.
No doubt, reach Carstensz Peak has been a dream of many climbers, both local and foreign tourists. Not just because the exotic scenery, but also the terrain along the variants, such as steep cliffs, glaciers, and sand. "Carstensz is the right place to apply the material that has been gained through practice," said Setyo Ramadi, a senior climbers from Mapala UI, which for the third time to the Carstensz.
Before our achievements and Bravo team, a core team of Expedition Seven Wanadri World Summit, which consists of Ardhesir Yaftebbi, Iwan Irawan, Martin Forester, Nurhuda, Fajri Al Lutfi, and Gina Afriani, also first to reach Carstensz Peak, Sunday (18 / 4 ). The song "Indonesia Raya" as a form of kumandangkan they gave thanks. "The success achieved Carstensz Peak can not be measured in value, giving us hope to reach the highest peak in the world," said Ardhesir Yaftebbi, team leader of Expedition Seven World Summit.
Peak no ice
Carstensz Pyramid becoming known international climbers since the first time achieved in 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, Austrian mountaineer who documented his adventures in the book Seven Years In Tibet.
Two years later, in March 1964, three members of the Armed Forces of the Regiment of the Army Command (RPKAD), ie, First Lieutenant Soedarto, Sugirin, and Fred Athaboe, had made history by becoming the first local climbers unfurled the Red and White on the highest peaks in the Expeditionary Paradise Indonesia. This success was followed by three climbers from Mapala UI, Sinarmas Djati, Henry Walandouw, and Rafiq Pontoh, which reached the Carstensz Pyramid in mid-1972.
However, unlike the other peaks in Jayawijaya, Carstensz Pyramid is no longer covered with ice. This is different from Soekarno or Nggapulu Peak, Peak Soemantri, and East Carstensz, who still has a stretch of white rug in the bud.
In fact, the senior climber Wanadri, Gunawan Muhammad, tells, when climbing Carstensz in 1986, ice still covered the rocky cliffs at the peak of Carstensz until the Great Terrace. In 1991, the ice has been shrinking due to only partially ice-covered cliff that is still in the peak area. "When in 1994 I returned to it, there is no more cliff-covered ice," said Gunawan, who is also the coordinator of the expedition expert staff.
Because the white carpet, Dani also called Carstensz Peak-Ndugu Ndugu name, which means dropping or falling. "Before, people often see Dani snow or ice that fell on top throughout the year," said Narniur Erelak, one of the Dani people.
The news there is ice on the highest peak of Jayawijaya, ice-covered peak near the equator, also circulated in European society. Dutch sailor, Jan Carstensz, who spread the information after seeing the shoots Jayawijaya Mountains in the middle of a cruise in February 1623. January Carstensz last name used to refer to the summit.
Climbing lane
Generally, Carstensz Peak can be reached via the northern route, from Ilaga, the Peak District, and Sugapa Intan Jaya Regency. But this year, the south route located in Tsinga, Mimika District, has also been initiated.
If through Ilaga and Sugapa, climbers usually stay in the Valley Lakes, the last camp before heading to Carstensz Pyramid. The tent held down by the lake surrounded by steep cliffs rocks nan.
Seven Summit Expedition Team World leaving mining through PT Freeport Indonesia. Starting from Bali Dump, the team then crossed the black-white cliffs, called Zebra Wall.
Travel continues to place called Door Wind, a path filled with big rocks and cliffs are limited to the right-left so much like a large wind tunnel. Arrive at the end of the evening, the team stayed at this place.
The next day, the team rushed to Valley Lakes. Under normal circumstances, the trip from Bali to the Dump Valley Lakes is within 4-6 hours drive. However, because the team brought extra supplies so that must walk back and forth to transport goods, trips taken during 11 hours.
In addition to technical and physical abilities, the process of acclimation or adaptation to the temperature and air pressure at altitude is also needed in the achievement of Carstensz Peak. As an illustration, the core team of Expedition Seven new World Summit made the effort to climb to the summit on Tuesday (13 / 4), after a five-day stay in Jayawijaya Mountains region.
Each climber has a distinct ability to adapt to the altitude. There is a need a few days until he reached the count of weeks. If you are not familiar with the conditions at altitude, climbers will usually hit by drowsiness, nausea, and dizziness or common experience known as hypoxia, ie oxygen deficiency syndrome in the body tissues due to differences in altitude. In fatal cases, this syndrome can lead to death. "Usually the acclimatization done with mild or Doing Activities climbers can fall back to a certain height, if not familiar," says Gunawan.
Ascent do require preparation, both physical, supplies, and techniques. Miscalculated and could threaten the safety push myself and the team.
Inevitably, the metal plaque reads "In Memoriam Hartono Basuki Wibowo June 15 1958-22 April 1981" (Hartono Mapala UI Basuki is a member who dies in an accident around Carstensz Peak), which lay at the peak of Carstensz, has reminded climbers everywhere so that what regardless of the consequences, safety even though the soul is the primary must forget the dream to the top. (Source: http://cetak.kompas.com)
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